How to move a fridge: preparation the day before
With a fridge, the preparation matters more than the journey itself. Anyone who works out how to move a fridge at the last minute ends up transporting a wet appliance full of loose shelves and discovers at home that it doesn't cool. Yet all it takes is to start a day earlier and go through four steps.
Empty it and unplug it
Use up the food or move it to a cool bag. Plan to eat up the contents of the freezer a few days in advance so you don't have to throw anything away. The rest will survive several hours in a bag with ice packs.
At least twenty-four hours before the move, switch off the fridge and unplug it. The compressor needs time for the oil to settle, and the freezer needs time to defrost.
Defrost and dry
Let the ice melt on its own; don't speed it up with a knife. Damage to the evaporator tends to be irreparable. Put towels and cloths under the fridge — there is usually a surprising amount of water.
Wipe the inside dry and leave it open. A closed damp fridge will go mouldy within a few hours, and you will then spend weeks getting rid of the smell. You can put an open box of bicarbonate of soda inside.
Measure the fridge and the door frames
The narrowest point on the route decides whether the fridge will get through. Measure the depth of the appliance including the handles, plus the width of the door frames, the lift and the landing. With tall fridge-freezers it is often a matter of a few centimetres, even in the lift, where the fridge has to be tilted.
If it is tight, take off the fridge door and the flat door. The appliance door is usually held on by a few screws under the hinge cover; the door itself is easy to lift off and you gain a few centimetres. Keep the screws in a bag and tape it to the casing.
Secure everything that moves
Take out the shelves and drawers and wrap them separately. Glass shelves are the most expensive spare part and are the first to break during the journey. Wrap them in a blanket or between textiles and carry them lying flat against the wall.
If you don't want to take the shelves out, tape them in place. It is always better to remove them, though, because in an upright position they shift even under gentle braking.
Tape the doors shut, but not over the seal. Run the tape over the casing; on the rubber seal it leaves glue that is hard to remove. Coil the power cable and tape it to the back panel.