Straps and lashing straps: how to use them properly

Which straps and lashing straps to take

Straps and lashing straps aren't interchangeable bits of rope — they differ in construction and load capacity. For transporting things in a van, two types are all you need. You can tell the difference at first glance, and that determines what you'll use them for.

Ratchet strap

A ratchet strap lets you really tension the strap, not just pull it tight by hand. It's used for heavy and rigid items: building materials, machines, pallets, washing machines. The tension is strong, which is both an advantage and a risk. You can squeeze fragile furniture or a cardboard box so hard with a ratchet that it caves in.

Cam buckle strap

A cam buckle strap is tightened by hand and easy to release. It's suitable for lighter items, for holding blankets in place and as additional securing. It isn't designed to hold a heavy load on its own under hard braking.

Read the label

Every strap has a label sewn on with its load capacity. The LC marking indicates the force the strap can safely transmit in a straight pull. Don't confuse it with the breaking strength that some product descriptions give. Treat a strap without a legible label as a strap without a guarantee and don't use it for a heavy load.

Number of straps

One strap is almost never enough. The load must be secured against moving forwards, backwards and sideways. Two straps crossed over hold much better than one across the middle. Always take more straps in the van than you think you need.

One-piece and two-piece straps

A one-piece strap wraps around the load; a two-piece strap has hooks at the ends. A two-piece strap with hooks is more versatile for fastening to the anchor points in a van. You'll appreciate a one-piece strap when you need to bind several items together, such as a bundle of planks or pipes.

Choose the length to suit the load

A short strap won't reach; one that's too long gets in the way. For ordinary furniture across the load floor, straps of around four metres will do; for wrapping round a long item, longer ones are better. A set made up of several lengths is more practical than five identical straps.

What else to add to your kit

Straps alone won't solve the problem. Pack an anti-slip mat, old blankets for padding and edge protectors. Blankets have two roles: they protect surfaces and at the same time increase friction between items, so the load doesn't slide around so easily.

Rope or bungee cords are no substitute for a strap

Hemp rope, bungee cords and stretch wrap won't secure a load. Elastic stretches, so the load still slides under braking and then springs back. Rope breaks at the knot sooner than its thickness would suggest. Securing calls for a textile strap with a declared load capacity; other aids are only for holding small items in place.

How to tension a strap properly

Anchor only to anchor points

A strap belongs in a point designed for that purpose. Never on a grab handle, a bulkhead tube or anything that's just screwed into the sheet metal. The anchor points on a van's load floor are positioned so they can take the pull.

Watch the angle

The closer the strap is to horizontal, the better it holds the load against sliding. A strap running steeply downwards mainly presses the load against the floor, which is useful for a rigid item, but on its own it doesn't stop it sliding forwards under braking. Combine both directions.

Protect the edges

A sharp edge will cut into a strap when it's tensioned. Put a piece of cardboard, a plastic protector or a folded blanket under the strap. A strap with a cut loses load capacity, even if it looks intact on the outside. At the same time you also protect the load itself from pressure marks.

Never tie knots

A knot in a strap reduces its load capacity by a significant amount. If a strap is too long, roll up the excess and secure it with an elastic band, but don't tie it. Likewise, don't twist the strap — the webbing should lie flat.

Use an anti-slip mat

Rubber under the load does half the work. An anti-slip mat significantly increases friction between the load and the floor, so the straps don't have to hold everything on their own. A cheap, light solution that fits in any van.

Tension gradually and symmetrically

First tighten all the straps lightly, and only then tension them fully. If you tighten one all the way, the load tilts under it and the other straps go slack. With taller items, watch whether the furniture bends under the tension; if so, put a plank under the strap to spread the pressure over a longer area.

Maintenance and checks

Run each strap through your hand before every use. You're looking for torn edges, fraying, worn spots and deformed hooks. A damaged strap isn't repaired; it's thrown out.

Keep the ratchet clean and dry. A clogged mechanism doesn't hold reliably and is hard to release. Store straps rolled up, not tossed in the mud on the floor.

Don't wash straps in a washing machine or dry them on a radiator. The webbing fibres are sensitive to chemicals and high temperatures. Rinse a dirty strap in lukewarm water and let it dry naturally. Otherwise it loses strength without it being visible.

After a few dozen kilometres, stop and tighten them again. The load settles and the straps loosen. You'll find the anchor points and load floor dimensions for each van in our fleet, and more tips on the blog.